Château d’Esclans, Whispering Angel 2023, Tom Cannavan

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(2024) 'Tall poppy syndrome' refers to the tendency for some people to cut successful entities 'down to size'. There's no doubt that the mega-brand of Whispering Angel suffers from that; some commentators claiming it is over-priced and intrinsically 'nothing special.' Having tasted the wine vintage after vintage for most of its 18 year history, I disagree and the 2023 is as good, if not better, than ever. Blended from old vine Grenache, Cinsault and Rolle, it's made in stainless-steel with lees-stirring. The peachy-pink colour heralds such an attractive nose, with watermelon and small red berries, passion fruit and downy peach skins. Dry but delightfully peachy and fresh, a hint of strawberry and then confit lemon is buoyant and rounded. That texture and fruit is extended by perfectly balanced acidity. Watch the video for more information.